Every season, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022 serves as a panoply of Indian handicrafts and sartorial innovation, spread over five perfect days of fashion. The festive edition every year-end is all about revivalist craftsmanship, bridal couture, fusion and luxury pret all came together in one sprawling, season-agnostic Fashion Week.
The opening show
As the curtain-raiser, Anamika Khanna’s AK-OK was a freewheeling coterie of eclectic prints and unique silhouettes, which included the good old white kurta, statement denim jackets and street-bohemian dresses.
Day one witnessed Shantnu & Nikhil’s bridal collection — a sparkling ode to the Baroque era comprising opulent velvet, lace, and dori work in greens, blacks and silvers. Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan showcased high-octane gowns and flapper-style frocks replete with downy feathers for a lush party vibe.
Mishru’s collection was delicate and feminine, fashioned in gorgeous pinks, reds and greens while being embellished with florals. Aseem Kapoor’s Ambi was a dazzling tribute to the Persian-Indian shape, and Countrymade provided earthy but elegantly rugged menswear.
Reimagined Indian classics took centre-stage led by fashion stalwarts Abraham & Thakore, who refreshed their signature monochromes with neon yellows in updated suits, saris, and churidars cut from organic cottons and tussar silks. Studio Medium reworked the six-yard drape, incorporating into it glistening metallics, Jamdani and bandhani.
Geometry charged with futurism best describes Amit Aggarwal’s latticed blouses with fluid pants, dresses, sharp suits and gowns with cutouts, all in black, white and metallics. Gauri & Nainika revelled in feminine energy with sinuous, draped gowns, classic florals, and understated elegance in jewel tones. Bohemia tinged with tech was the flavour of Saaksha & Kinni’s collection which had an array of dizzying prints mixed with Rajasthani mirror work. Abhishek Sharma displayed pink and green confections, laced with glass-beaded strings and intricate embroidery.
Gaurav Gupta’s ‘Starland’ embodied the lustre and mystery of the cosmos in purply grey and black. Sheer embroidered sheaths, mini dresses, lehengas and deconstructed suits reflected the controlled fluidity that Gupta is famous for. SVA by Sonam & Paras Modi displayed a vivacious collection comprising fusion Indian wear with signature stripes, peacock motifs and Nadesar Palace sceneries.
Offsetting these cool tones were Anushree Reddy’s royal pink, red and cream lehengas, gilded with zari work and pretty florals. Samant Chauhan’s nomadic bridal wear was a jubilant explosion of tassels, prints, native embroideries, and mirror work, centred around red, gold, and blue. Prints mingled with rich velvet in Payal Singhal’s pastel-forward ‘Painterly’, a cool mix of Mughal-inspired lehengas, pantsuits and dhoti pants for the global citizen. Gaurang revived 40 handwoven weaves and techniques like Kanjeevaram and Ghara, Varun Nidhika leaned into structured gold and silver filigree, while Aisha Rao brought to life a mosaic of colours inspired by Barcelona.
Inspired by the jungle and its textures, Nikita Mhaisalkar displayed gowns, dresses and resort wear in earthy tones, snakeskin prints and raffia detailing, cut with shimmering gold embellishment. Nachiket Barve’s sleek gowns, pantsuits, capes and jumpsuits were nothing short of sublime, ensconced in hand-cut diaphanous florals on decadent fabrics.