From designers who took inspiration from their heritage by recreating the culture of their respective hometowns to those who went back in time to bring the authentic beauty of the past to the runway, Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018 had something for everyone. We scoured the runway to bring details on some of the most standout collections, as well as a closer look at the pieces you can shop straight off the runway on aashniandco.com!
Who: AM:PM by Ankur and Priyanka Modi
What: ‘The Gypset’ – a collection inspired by travel, folklore and urban legends.
Details: The palette consisted of earthy, deep desert hues like chilli red, forest green, tan orange and sand brown, which were brought to life with textures, prints and embroideries.
Vibe: Tunics reimagined as shirt dresses, salwars recreated as flared pants and classic long coats given a modern twist with the help of lapels for the sophisticated and glamorous bohemian.
For: The free-spirited neo-hippie
Who: Gaurang Shah
What: The vintage collection ‘Anupama’ paid tribute to Bollywood leading ladies from the ’50s and ’60s.
Details: Woven Benarasi saris were paired with ornate blouses in shades ranging from pastel pink, beige, pistachio green, lilac and sea blue to onion pink, purple and deeper tones of wine red, bottle green and peacock blue. Shah recreated the classic 3D effect through old motifs like the tanchoi, large floral designs, slender creepers and small paisleys.
Vibe: Retro romance pronounced through the use of gold and silver zari, Mangalgiri, Kota, luxurious brocades, silks, organzas, hand-woven sateens and chiffons and Chanderi silks.
For: The old-school goddess
What: The ‘Merlot’ collection married old-world influences with modern silhouettes in the brand’s signature fashion.
Details: Drapes and layering were the focal point. So you had draped kurtas with sheer jackets, lehenga blouses with cape sleeves, tiered skirts and saris with crisp waistcoats. The colour palette oscillated between jewel tones and neutrals.
Vibe: Yesteryear princess goes millennial
For: For the serial wedding attendee
Who: Amit Aggarwal
What: Based on his observations of kinetic movements and energies, Aggarwal presented his interpretation of the same through dynamic compositions of lines and use of sequins.
Details: The designer’s trademark aesthetic of structured silhouettes and eco-friendly textiles was visible. The colour story comprised arctic and pearl white, granite, silver grey and radiant black.
Vibe: The melange of futuristic silhouettes and androgynous materials.
For: The gender-fluid millennial
Who: Saaksha and Kinni
What: The collection ‘Raas’ paid homage to the folk dance of the designers’ hometown, Gujarat, and the women who revel in it.
Details: Chiffon and cotton silks were used in order to reflect the feminine side of the collection, while stiffer drill fabric was a reflection of the sharper masculine side. Classic Bandhani, Patola and ikat digital prints were featured, while drawstrings were a key element, appearing on sleeves, sides and hemlines, altering shapes and silhouettes.
Vibe: Rustic and playful, depicted through a wildly colourful palette.
For: The vivacious modern woman
Who: Anushree Reddy
What: Inspired by Nizami dressing, Anushree Reddy’s collection, ‘Sitar,’ was truly celestial.
Details: Reddy’s showcase included delicate pinks, radiant reds and vibrant greens on net, lace and silk. The addition of 3D floral and fauna appliqués made a strong statement.
Vibe: The designer’s use of elaborate techniques and decadent drapes lent each piece a heavenly quality.
For: The polished princess bride
Who: Payal Singhal
What: Singhal’s ‘Show Stopping Bride’ took inspiration from folk art tapestry.
Details: Zardozi, appliqué and beadwork combined with frayed embroidery and a varied range of tassels. The colour story was extensive and included neutral tones like grey and ivory as well as pastels like rose blush, mint, sage, cantaloupe, powder blue; vibrant shades like yellows, corals and pinks; and even deeper hues such as emerald green, navy blue and deep purple.
Vibe: Edgy meets flirty and feminine.
For: The experimental bride
Who: Punit Balana
What: The muse for ‘Gulabi Chowk’ was Balana’s hometown, Jaipur. The Pink City’s memorable monuments like Jalebi Chowk, Sheesh Mahal, and Amer Fort were the main source of inspiration.
Details: Dori work and glass embroidery were used to create motifs inspired by traditional architecture. The palette boasted pinkish maroons and greyish blues complemented by egg blue and steel.
Vibe: Tradition and culture meet innovation.
For: The drama-loving bride
What: Just like the supernova phenomenon, the designer’s ‘Supernova’ collection was full of bling and dazzle.
Details: The colour palette was inspired by the different colours of the sky, moving from dark tones to midnight blue and then soft moonlit hues and shades of dawn. Delicate embroidery was used with sequins, glass beads and miniature pearls on luxe fabrics such as georgette, velvet, silk, tulle and lace.
Vibe: The pairing of power dressing staples like strong capes and blazers with traditional silhouettes of lehengas and shararas struck the right balance between masculine and feminine.
For: The adventurous, avant-garde bride
Who: Julie by Julie Shah
What: The collection, ‘Abjini,’ was an ode to the blooming lotus, which possesses the quality of not only being sublime, unadulterated and fragile but also resilient and strong.
Details: Deeply inspired by vintage book covers in pretty pastels and delicate detailing, the designs were characterised by opulent handcrafted lotus motifs. The colour story included both pastel and jewel tones in Indo-western silhouettes.
Vibe: Mystical fairy-tale with just the right amount of glam.
For: The confident and independent bride
Shop fresh off the runway LFW collections here.